Pete Wells gave Nōksu a strange, somewhat scathing, somewhat glowing review a few months back complaining that the restaurant had no association to time or place. Since I find Pete to be fairly insufferable, I had to give Noksu a try. Intimate setting around an open kitchen is my favorite way to dine and Noksu maintains that feeling.
Food was truly exceptional. Many standout dishes with clean bold flavors and more hidden than obvious technique. The cook on the squab was among the most perfect proteins I’ve ever been served. The sardine bite was smooth and punched with acid. Broken rice had the actual taste of bamboo. Desserts were lovely.
Service can be worked on just a little bit. In this setting, I expect a bit more presentation, some more information and interaction. While it was limited, it did not detract from the experience but rather could be additive. Sommelier seemed perplexed by my request for a cocktail pairing but did just fine with it. ‘
I will enjoy seeing Nōksu mature and grow into its own style but felt this is a very strong start and to me, was worthy of 3 NYT stars and will likely earn 1 Michelin in next year’s guide.
4 Comments
Pete Wells gave Nōksu a strange, somewhat scathing, somewhat glowing review a few months back complaining that the restaurant had no association to time or place. Since I find Pete to be fairly insufferable, I had to give Noksu a try. Intimate setting around an open kitchen is my favorite way to dine and Noksu maintains that feeling.
Food was truly exceptional. Many standout dishes with clean bold flavors and more hidden than obvious technique. The cook on the squab was among the most perfect proteins I’ve ever been served. The sardine bite was smooth and punched with acid. Broken rice had the actual taste of bamboo. Desserts were lovely.
Service can be worked on just a little bit. In this setting, I expect a bit more presentation, some more information and interaction. While it was limited, it did not detract from the experience but rather could be additive. Sommelier seemed perplexed by my request for a cocktail pairing but did just fine with it. ‘
Read the review and judge for yourself: [https://www.nytimes.com/2024/02/27/dining/restaurant-review-noksu.html](https://www.nytimes.com/2024/02/27/dining/restaurant-review-noksu.html)
I will enjoy seeing Nōksu mature and grow into its own style but felt this is a very strong start and to me, was worthy of 3 NYT stars and will likely earn 1 Michelin in next year’s guide.
Full meal:
[https://imgur.com/a/5KF94LO](https://imgur.com/a/5KF94LO)
Everything looks great, food and ambience alike. I especially like the hidden nature of the restaurant! I’m a sucker for a memorable entrance.
Will definitely put this on my to-do list next time I’m in NYC.
I’m sorry, is that a bird’s skull?
I can verify I would eat this all