Noma – Game and Forest Season 29/1/23

by jeanlDD

8 Comments

  1. Very….monochromatic menu. Still want to go there to say I did but man.

    Some of those dishes just aren’t appealing to me. The parsley pesto oil is so loosely sitting around it, it’s not even presented tightly. Like the thicker pesto isn’t even centered. And the brown whispy things on parchment next to it…I just don’t know.

  2. Unsurprisingly, of all the meals I had in Copenhagen (including Alchemist and Geranium) Noma the most interesting.

    What was surprising is how subtle, clean and deceptively complex many of the dishes were. There seems to be a sentiment sometimes when describing the restaurant of super punchy, crazy delicious flavors that stand apart from anywhere else. On top of that there’s often an implication that the restaurant leans “experimental” or can be at time challenging.

    For me, it wasn’t at the peak of creativity, nor was it at the peak of deliciousness. In terms of influence of fermentation and flavor profiles, its also far from the most experimental or challenging food I’ve eaten, even in this style.

    Even in terms of the plating, the metallic dish that sat underneath the plates throughout the meal, the cutlery and elements of foliage like pine cones and moss feel like they’re executed at a very high level, but by no means the most elegant or even the most elaborate. At least in Australia the style has been copied to an endless degree too.

    On top of this, the cooking of the reindeer for the mains seems outside 3 star norms, by no means the typical edge to edge pink sous vide, a much more rustic approach.

    This might make the meal sound underwhelming, but despite this virtually every course felt thoughtfully crafted and delicious. Some flavor combinations like the reindeer brains with a substantive amount of bee pollen worked extraordinarily well, as did the pickled ramson wrapping a quail egg. Every single dish for me had a very distinct visual component that sticks in the memory.

    For me what makes the restaurant stand out is how on its own terms it does things, from the structure of the meal being full of sweetness and acidity during the savory portion of the meal, use of berries, the almost entire lack of seafood. While traditionally the appetizers or “snacks” are presented all at once at the beginning, they seemed to be littered across the entire menu here.

    Despite this nothing felt “experimental”, there was a sense of successful craft across the entire menu where each dish felt natural and delicious, there were no aggressive flavor combinations or plates designed to challenge the diner as might be found in restaurants trying to emulate this style. Not the most delicious, not the most interesting, but by a wide margin the most individual character expressed and consistent success across courses.

    While Geranium particularly offered a step up in terms of overall experience, Noma seems to linger in the brain much longer. There’s a mystique I haven’t found elsewhere, also an itch to go back at some point in the near future.

    Wine pairing was as perfect as it gets without elevating price substantially, super interesting examples that you wouldn’t find elsewhere, a lot of preference for natural wines and some super thoughtful and effective pairings with the food, like the sparkling orange wine with the reindeer ragout. A really exceptional Vin Jaune a highlight, a variety that most pairings would ignore entirely.

    Having looked at a wide variety of instagram photos for this current season, one thing I noticed is that various dishes such as a chestnut tart dessert and reindeer chops seem to only be given on select nights or to select guests. Some of these people seem to be either industry insiders, chefs or people who know members of staff. Understandable the restaurant might give a little extra in these cases, but personally I’d rather they just have an option for an extra 600 dkk to get a few bonus dishes, which I’d happily pay. An unnecessary bitter note imo.

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